Hard Ice Guide Assessment (4 days)

Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus at any stage of the assessment. They will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.

It is expected that only minimal training will need to be given.

Participants will be assessed on their personal technical skills necessary for guiding and instructing on the lower, hard ice glacial areas.

Participants’ guiding and instructional skills will be assessed to see that they will be effective guides and instructors for:

Half or full day walking trips and helihikes on lower hard ice glacial areas
Ice climbing days on lower, hard ice glacial areas.

The specialist skills on the Hard Ice Guide Assessment are assessed at a Climbing Guide Level 1 standard.

Download HIG Application Form

Prerequisites:
To be allocated a place on a Hard Ice Guide Assessment Course, you must have met the following criteria:

- New Zealand resident or have a current work permit.
- Attendance on a Hard Ice Guide Training Course within the last two years. (see below)
- 100 days guiding walking parties on lower hard ice glacial areas under the supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Guide.
15 of these days must be under the direct supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Mountain Guide. A written record or logbook must be presented on application.
- Current Pre Hospital Emergency Care Qualification.
- Written endorsement of 2 NZMGA guides (Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Mountain Guide).

Status:
On successfully passing a Hard Ice Guide Course and ratification from the Technical Subcommittee, the participant attains the status of NZMGA Hard Ice Guide.

Location, timing, and length:
Usually, this will be run over four days in spring or autumn

Further information:
Please read the following sections before you attend this course:

Assessment
Marking schedule
Technical Syllabus
Analysis of Topics

Hard Ice Guide Training Course
This course is run ’in house’ as part of a glacier guiding company’s staff training.
The training is in the techniques necessary for safe and efficient guiding of walking parties on the lower hard ice areas of glaciers. It is recommended that all subjects in the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus are be covered and individual reports written certifying that this has been done.
Status
This course does not give right of membership to NZMGA but is the first step in training towards NZMGA Hard Ice Guide status and membership.

Location, timing, and length:
Usually, pre summer but at the discretion of the company. The training time for the NZMGA topics is three days.

Syllabus and Marking Schedule Hard Ice Guide
Topics must be taught as per the Analysis of Topics.

Client Care

2    Communication with client           10
3    Route selection                              20
4    Terrain analysis                              20
5    Pace setting                                    10
8    Application of guiding technique   10
9    Group management                        10
11     Client control                               20
12    Client safety                                  20
   
Subtotal 120


Personal skills and knowledge
 

13    General mountain movement        10
14   Fitness and stamina 10
15    Professionalism and
    personal appearance      		 10
16    Personal equipment                       10
17    Reaction under stress                     10
18    Leadership and decision making    10
19    Rope handling                                10
22    Ice climbing                                   10
23    Step cutting                                    20
24    Belays on ice including anchors    10
27    Mountain Weather                         10
28    Nature and environment                20
   
Subtotal 140

Instruction

31    Speech and contact with students       10
32    Structure of the lesson                        10
33    Site selection                                       10
34    Support materials & demonstration    10
35    Ability to motivate                               
   
Subtotal 50


Search and rescue

37    Crevasse extraction                          10
38    Stretchers                                          10
40    Accident site management                10
   
Subtotal 30


Mandatory non-assessment topics - These must be covered in a discussion format.
- Radio use
- Aircraft safety
- Post-traumatic stress disorder
- NZMGA Harassment Policy
- NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy
- NZMGA Professional, Supervision and Terrain Guidelines

Course total                                            340 
Final comments - Trainers/assessors will give a full summary with comments and recommendations.