Snow & Ice Guide Training Course
Introduction
This guides' training course is to take solid amateur mountaineering skills and knowledge and teach the candidate how to change/modify techniques, skills and knowledge into professional mountain and ski guiding techniques, skills and knowledge.
Duration: 6 days
Syllabus:
Crevasse rescue with dynamic rope
Glacier travel with client(s)
Snow and Ice guiding anchors; equalization; belay techniques, appropriate application of.
Shortroping 1, 2 and 3 clients on snow
Short pitching/pitching on snow
Cramponing equipment including ice axe/hammer
Step cutting/stance making
Snow and ice climbing technique
Hut management, cooking, hygiene
Trip planning
Client safety in the alpine environment/personal safety
Emergency procedures/issues for alpine environment
Mountain weather
Navigation and route planning
Application of guiding technique and decision making
Outcome:
General assessment of the candidate's overall mountaineering skills will be done. A positive recommendation for their particular pathway is required for the candidate to be able to progress to their appropriate Level 1 guides course.
Possible locations:
Barron Saddle
Fox Glacier area
Franz Josef Glacier area
Tasman Saddle area
Plateau area
Bonar Glacier area
Snow and Ice Guiding Training Course Full Syllabus
| Crevasse Rescue With Dynamic Rope |
|
Unassisted Prusik |
|
Holding the Fall/Slide |
|
Drop loop assisted hoist |
|
Drop loop unassisted |
|
Non drop loop hoist eg 6:1 |
| Glacier Travel With Client(s) |
|
Guide - how much rope to carry |
|
Appropriateness of coils |
|
Tying off coils |
|
Knots in rope |
|
Client brief and communications |
| Snow & Ice Guiding Anchors |
|
Fast equilisation methods |
|
Belay techniques |
|
Appropriate application |
| Shortroping 1, 2 & 3 Clients On Snow |
|
Guide on end of rope - inline method |
|
Guide on end of rope - independent 'V' method |
|
Guide in middle of rope |
|
Hand wrap |
|
Figure 8 handle |
|
Disappearing handle |
|
Using cow's tail/daisy chain and clipping into figure 8 for glacier shortroping |
| Short Pitching/Pitching On Snow & Ice |
| Equipment For Guiding |
|
Snow stakes |
|
Crampons |
|
Ice axe/hammer |
| Step Cutting & Route Preparation |
|
Single line up and down |
|
Double cut up and down |
|
Stance making |
|
Step plugging, reinforced steps, steps the night before |
| Snow & Ice Climbing Technique |
|
French technique considerations when guiding, especially short roping |
| Hut Management |
|
Working around other users |
|
Cooking & presentation standards |
|
Hygiene |
| Trip Planning |
| Client Safety In The Alpine Environment |
| Personal Safety |
| Communication With Client |
|
Client equipment checklists |
|
Guide equipment checklists |
|
Briefings |
|
Encouragement, being assertive when appropriate eg retreat |
| Emergency Procedures |
|
Communication device options - strengths and weaknesses |
|
Issues for alpine environment eg weather |
|
Shelters & bivouacs |
| Mountain Weather |
|
Theory |
|
Field observations |
|
Expected level of knowledge/understanding for a guide |
| Navigation |
|
Efficient use of map and compass |
|
Use of GPS for guiding |
|
Navigation plan |
|
Route Planning |
| Application Of Guiding Techniques |
|
Decision making
|
