Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus at any stage of the assessment. They will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.
It is expected that only minimal training will need to be given.
Participants will be assessed on their personal technical skills necessary for guiding and instructing on the lower, hard ice glacial areas.
Participants’ guiding and instructional skills will be assessed to see that they will be effective guides and instructors for:
Half or full day walking trips and helihikes on lower hard ice glacial areas
Ice climbing days on lower, hard ice glacial areas.
The specialist skills on the Hard Ice Guide Assessment are assessed at a Climbing Guide Level 1 standard.
Prerequisites
To be allocated a place on a Hard Ice Guide Assessment Course, you must have met the following criteria:
New Zealand resident or have a current work permit.
Attendance on a Hard Ice Guide Training Course within the last two years. (see below)
100 days guiding walking parties on lower hard ice glacial areas under the supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Guide.
15 of these days must be under the direct supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Mountain Guide. A written record or logbook must be presented on application.
Current Pre Hospital Emergency Care Qualification.
Written endorsement of 2 NZMGA guides (Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Mountain Guide).
Status
On successfully passing a Hard Ice Guide Course and ratification from the Technical Subcommittee, the participant attains the status of NZMGA Hard Ice Guide.
Location, timing, and length
Usually, this will be run over four days in spring or autumn
Further information
Please read the following sections before you attend this course:
This course is run ’in house’ as part of a glacier guiding company’s staff training.
The training is in the techniques necessary for safe and efficient guiding of walking parties on the lower hard ice areas of glaciers. It is recommended that all subjects in the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus are be covered and individual reports written certifying that this has been done. Status
This course does not give right of membership to NZMGA but is the first step in training towards NZMGA Hard Ice Guide status and membership. Location, timing, and length
Usually, pre summer but at the discretion of the company. The training time for the NZMGA topics is three days.
Syllabus and Marking Schedule Hard Ice Guide
Topics must be taught as per the Analysis of Topics.
Client Care
2 Communication with client 10
3 Route selection 20
4 Terrain analysis 20
5 Pace setting 10
8 Application of guiding technique 10
9 Group management 10
11 Client control 20
12 Client safety 20
Subtotal 120
Personal skills and knowledge
13 General mountain movement 10
14 Fitness and stamina 10
15 Professionalism and
personal appearance 10
16 Personal equipment 10
17 Reaction under stress 10
18 Leadership and decision making 10
19 Rope handling 10
22 Ice climbing 10
23 Step cutting 20
24 Belays on ice including anchors 10
27 Mountain Weather 10
28 Nature and environment 20
Subtotal 140
Instruction
31 Speech and contact with students 10
32 Structure of the lesson 10
33 Site selection 10
34 Support materials & demonstration 10
35 Ability to motivate 10
Subtotal 50
Search and rescue
37 Crevasse extraction 10
38 Stretchers 10
40 Accident site management 10
Subtotal 30
Mandatory non-assessment topics These must be covered in a discussion format.
Radio use
Aircraft safety
Post-traumatic stress disorder
NZMGA Harassment Policy
NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy
NZMGA Professional, Supervision and Terrain Guidelines
Course total 340
Final comments
Trainers/assessors will give a full summary with comments and recommendations.
